“As he traveled around the country and, more importantly, tasted,” Colombo stressed, “Artusi realized that Italy did not exist: the Sicilians did not know risotto, the Milanese did not know what spaghetti was. Beets were used only by Jewish communities.” Thus was born the idea of “making Italians” starting with cooking. It was ultimately about making known to some what they did not know about others, using Italian as a common language.
The cookbook, “Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well”, had a troubled publishing history, but today it is simply “the Artusi”, a reference point for gastronomy and, according to Colombo, “a metaphor for the forge of our national identity”, which has always been composite and multifaceted.
Another important juncture, highlighted in a discourse also rich in anecdotes and background on 150 years of the culture and entertainment industry, concerns “L’Inferno di Topolino”, a comic strip story published by Arnoldo Mondadori beginning in 1949. Written by Guido Martina and drawn by Angelo Bioletto, this work,” the professor pointed out, “is very different from those produced by Disney in America, because it recovers graphic elements peculiar to our national tradition to educate by entertaining through parodying a learned text. But most importantly, in those vignettes perfect blend of the entire Disney imagery, the two authors’ love and admiration for America emerges. This sentiment, which is the hallmark of Degasperian Italy, is like a mirror in which is reflected the image of a country that looked overseas for a model of recovery from the war.
Recipes, comic strips, the songs of Gaber and “I Gufi” [tr. The Owls], radio broadcasts in Fascist Italy such as “I Quattro Moschettieri” [tr. The Four Musketeers], the excesses of a TV show such as Renzo Arbore’s “Indietro tutta!”, the films of Sergio Leone and the Gialli Mondadori, the eternal nostalgia for the 1960s of the film “Sapore di mare” [Taste of the Sea] released in the early 1980s, the endless television series of the platforms: what do all these products of yesterday and today tell about our country?
Popular culture and the culture of elites, high and low, are in reality the currents of one great stream in which we are all immersed. Inside this river, over the years, Fausto Colombo has taught how to swim to discover who we really are.